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  <front>
    <journal-meta>
      <journal-id journal-id-type="publisher-id">Morskoj gidrofizičeskij žurnal</journal-id>
      <journal-title-group>
        <journal-title xml:lang="en">Morskoj gidrofizičeskij žurnal</journal-title>
        <trans-title-group xml:lang="ru">
          <trans-title>Морской гидрофизический журнал</trans-title>
        </trans-title-group>
      </journal-title-group>
      <issn publication-format="print">0233-7584</issn>
    </journal-meta>
    <article-meta>
      <article-id pub-id-type="publisher-id">20250102</article-id>
      <article-id pub-id-type="edn">BOTHLG</article-id>
      
      <article-categories>
        <subj-group subj-group-type="toc-heading" xml:lang="en">
          <subject>Analysis of observations and methods of calculating Hydrophysical fields in the ocean</subject>
        </subj-group>
        <subj-group subj-group-type="toc-heading" xml:lang="ru">
          <subject>Анализ результатов наблюдений и методы расчета гидрофизических полей океана</subject>
        </subj-group>
        <subj-group subj-group-type="article-type">
          <subject>Research Article</subject>
        </subj-group>
      </article-categories>

      <title-group>
        <article-title xml:lang="en">A Storm in the Attenuation Stage as a Factor in Seasonal Deformations of a Sandy Coastal Profile</article-title>
        <trans-title-group xml:lang="ru">
          <trans-title>Шторм в стадии затухания как фактор сезонных деформаций песчаного берегового профиля</trans-title>
        </trans-title-group>
      </title-group>

      <contrib-group>
        <contrib contrib-type="author">
          <contrib-id contrib-id-type="orcid">https://orcid.org/0000-0002-7365-8386</contrib-id>
          <contrib-id contrib-id-type="researcherid">A-5093-2017</contrib-id>
          <contrib-id contrib-id-type="spin">4902-0371</contrib-id>
          <name-alternatives>
            <name xml:lang="en">
              <surname>Korzinin</surname>
              <given-names>D. V.</given-names>
            </name>
            <name xml:lang="ru">
              <surname>Корзинин</surname>
              <given-names>Д. В.</given-names>
            </name>
          </name-alternatives>
          <address>
            <country country="RU">Russian Federation</country>
          </address>
          <bio xml:lang="ru"><p>старший научный сотрудник, Институт океанологии им. П. П. Ширшова РАН (117997, Россия, г. Москва, Нахимовский проспект, д. 36), кандидат географических наук</p></bio>
          <email>korzinin@ocean.ru</email>
          <xref ref-type="aff" rid="aff1"/>
        </contrib>
      </contrib-group>

      <aff-alternatives id="aff1">
        <aff xml:lang="en">
          <institution>Shirshov Institute of Oceanology, Russian Academy of Sciences</institution>
          <addr-line>Moscow</addr-line>
          <country>Russia</country>
        </aff>
        <aff xml:lang="ru">
          <institution>Институт океанологии им. П. П. Ширшова РАН</institution>
          <addr-line>Москва</addr-line>
          <country>Россия</country>
        </aff>
      </aff-alternatives>

      <pub-date date-type="pub" iso-8601-date="2025-02-28" publication-format="electronic">
        <day>28</day>
        <month>02</month>
        <year>2025</year>
      </pub-date>
      <volume>41</volume>
      <issue>1</issue>
      <fpage>20</fpage>
      <lpage>35</lpage>

      <history>
        <date date-type="received" iso-8601-date="2024-07-31">
          <day>31</day>
          <month>07</month>
          <year>2024</year>
        </date>
        <date date-type="rev-recd" iso-8601-date="2024-08-26">
          <day>26</day>
          <month>08</month>
          <year>2024</year>
        </date>
        <date date-type="accepted" iso-8601-date="2024-11-20">
          <day>20</day>
          <month>11</month>
          <year>2024</year>
        </date>
      </history>

      <permissions>
        <copyright-statement xml:lang="en">Copyright ©; 2025, Korzinin D.V.</copyright-statement>
        <copyright-statement xml:lang="ru">Copyright ©; 2025, Корзинин Д. В.</copyright-statement>
        <copyright-year>2025</copyright-year>
        <copyright-holder xml:lang="en">Korzinin D.V.</copyright-holder>
        <copyright-holder xml:lang="ru">Корзинин Д. В.</copyright-holder>
        <ali:free_to_read xmlns:ali="http://www.niso.org/schemas/ali/1.0/"/>
        <license>
          <ali:license_ref xmlns:ali="http://www.niso.org/schemas/ali/1.0/">https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/4.0/</ali:license_ref>
        </license>
      </permissions>
      <self-uri xlink:href="https://xn--c1agq7a.xn--p1ai/repository/issues/2025/01/02/" xlink:title="Страница статьи">https://xn--c1agq7a.xn--p1ai/repository/issues/2025/01/02/</self-uri>
      
      <abstract xml:lang="en">
        <p><bold>Purpose.</bold> The purpose of the study is to consider both features of storms in the attenuation stage as a factor in the coastal profile restoration after storm erosion and a potential cause of seasonal deformations.</p>
        <p><bold>Methods and Results</bold>. Seasonal morphodynamics of accumulative coastal areas was studied in the regions both of the Vistula Spit (South-Eastern Baltic) based on the monitoring measurements of coastal profile performed by the employees of the Shirshov Institute of Oceanology, RAS, from May 2019 to March 2022 and the Oktyabrskaya Spit (western Kamchatka) using the measurement data taken in 2010–2011. Two indices describing the storm structure are used: the ratio of the attenuation stage duration to the total storm duration <italic>R</italic><sub><italic>t</italic></sub> and the ratio of the median value of storm wave height during the attenuation stage to the peak wave height of the storm event <italic>R</italic><sub><italic>Hs</italic></sub>. The variations in <italic>R</italic><sub><italic>t</italic></sub> and <italic>R</italic><sub><italic>Hs</italic></sub> during a year are statistically analyzed based on the ERA5 long-term wave reanalysis data. It is found that the <italic>R</italic><sub><italic>t</italic></sub> index does not tend to change on a seasonal scale. When the <italic>R</italic><sub><italic>Hs</italic></sub> index is close to one and changes slightly during a year, the coastal profile does not experience seasonal changes. If <italic>R</italic><sub><italic>Hs</italic></sub> changes in course of a year decreasing significantly during the period of more intense waves, the coast experiences seasonal changes.</p>
        <p><bold>Conclusions</bold>. The variations in wave intensity during a year do not always result in the change of average position of the coastal profile. The key factor may consist in the seasonal trends in wave parameter changes within a storm cycle. The proposed index <italic>R</italic><sub><italic>Hs</italic></sub> can be regarded as a criterion for the behavior type of sandy coasts on a seasonal scale.</p>
      </abstract>
      
      <trans-abstract xml:lang="ru">
        <p><bold>Цель.</bold> Рассмотрены особенности штормов в стадии затухания как фактор восстановления берегового профиля после штормового размыва и возможная причина сезонных деформаций.</p>
        <p><bold>Методы и результаты.</bold> Сезонная морфодинамика аккумулятивных участков берега исследовалась в районах Балтийской косы (Юго-Восточная Балтика) на основе данных мониторинговых измерений берегового профиля Институтом океанологии им. П. П. Ширшова РАН с мая 2019 г. по март 2022 г. и Октябрьской косы (Западная Камчатка) с использованием данных измерений, проведенных в 2010–2011 гг. Введены два показателя, описывающие структуру шторма: отношение продолжительности стадии затухания к общей продолжительности шторма<italic> R</italic><sub><italic>t</italic></sub>; отношение медианного значения высоты волны шторма в стадии затухания к максимальному значению высоты волны шторма <italic>R</italic><sub><italic>H</italic><sub><italic>s</italic></sub></sub>. Hа основе многолетних данных реанализа волнения <italic>ERA</italic>5 выполнен статистический анализ изменения показателей <italic>R</italic><sub><italic>t</italic></sub> и <italic>R</italic><sub><italic>H</italic><sub><italic>s</italic></sub></sub> в течение года. Выявлено, что показатель <italic>R</italic><sub><italic>t</italic></sub> не имеет тенденции к изменениям в масштабе сезонов. Когда показатель <italic>R</italic><sub><italic>H</italic><sub><italic>s</italic></sub></sub> близок к единице и мало меняется в течение года, береговой профиль не испытывает сезонных изменений. Если <italic>R</italic><sub><italic>H</italic><sub><italic>s</italic></sub></sub> изменяется в течение года, заметно снижаясь в период более интенсивных волнений, то берег испытывает сезонные изменения.</p>
        <p><bold>Выводы:</bold> Изменение интенсивности волнения в течение года не всегда приводит к изменению среднего положения берегового профиля. Ключевым фактором могут являться сезонные тенденции изменения волновых параметров внутри штормового цикла. Предложенный показатель <italic>R</italic><sub><italic>H</italic><sub><italic>s</italic></sub></sub> можно рассматривать как критерий типа поведения песчаного берега в масштабе сезонов.</p>
      </trans-abstract>

      <kwd-group xml:lang="en">
        <kwd>sandy coast</kwd>
        <kwd>coastal profile</kwd>
        <kwd>wave regime</kwd>
        <kwd>underwater bar</kwd>
        <kwd>morphodynamics</kwd>
        <kwd>seasonal deformations</kwd>
        <kwd>storm stages</kwd>
      </kwd-group>
      <kwd-group xml:lang="ru">
        <kwd>песчаный берег</kwd>
        <kwd>береговой профиль</kwd>
        <kwd>волновой режим</kwd>
        <kwd>подводный вал</kwd>
        <kwd>морфодинамика</kwd>
        <kwd>сезонные деформации</kwd>
        <kwd>стадии шторма</kwd>
      </kwd-group>

      <funding-group>
        <funding-statement xml:lang="en">The research was supported by the Russian Science Foundation (RSF, grant 24‑27-00238). The author is grateful to M. N. Shtremel, P. M. Belova and A. Kazakov who participated in the field work on the Vistula Spit, and to S. L. Gorin, E. A. Kravchunovskaya and I. I. Tembrel who took part in the field work in the settlement of Oktyabrsky in the western Kamchatka and thanks to whom the valuable data on the coastal profile morphodynamics were obtained.</funding-statement>
        <funding-statement xml:lang="ru">Исследование выполнено при финансовой поддержке гранта РНФ 24-27-00238. Автор выражает признательность участвовавшим в полевых работах на Балтийской косе М. Н. Штремель, П. М. Беловой, А. Казакову и на Западной Камчатке в пос. Октябрьский – С. Л. Горину, Е. А. Кравчуновской , И. И. Тембрелу, благодаря которым получены ценные данные о морфодинамике берегового профиля.</funding-statement>
      </funding-group>
    </article-meta>
  </front>

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